Grower Champagne: Terroir-Driven Wines in a Changing Region

Two decades ago, grower Champagnes occupied the fringes of the market—esoteric bottlings made by small farming families, championed by sommeliers, Champagne obsessives, and the occasional renegade importer. Labels such as Jacques Selosse, Egly-Ouriet, and Ulysse Collin were whispered about rather than displayed, their wines produced in tiny quantities and often vanishing into private allocations before...